Quote "The fishermen know that the sea is dangerous and the storm terrible, but they have never found these dangers sufficient reason for remaining ashore.. Vincent Van Gogh 

I have been trying to blog for the last three days without success due to having a weak WIFI signal. Just as I was ready to publish this last post, it appears that half of if has vanished.   I will try my best to post again.

It seems as if our time in Nazareth has  also vanished all too quickly.  The next couple posts will be detailing our time in The Sea of Galilee area.  We are staying at Ein Gev directly on the water...what a spectacular kibbutz to stay in......I will post more about what a kibbutz is at a later blog. 
http://www.eingev.com


                      Sea of Galilee region

• the first pic is not that of the Sea of Galilee but the words are so very appropriate for my blog.  One can feel so very connected when you are near the water.
• The  body of water has receded over the years and is now 43 meters deep at its deepest point 
• The ancient language of Aramaic does not have a literal word for lake which is why it is called the Sea of Galilee instead of the lake of Galilee.
• This is Israel's main source of water and lies 212 metres below sea level and is fed by the Jordan River and measures 13 miles long by 6 miles wide.
• The Hebrew name for the lake is Kinneret, which means harp, because the shape of the lake is like a harp, and also the sound of the waves on the shore is like the music of a harp

Lunch at Tambouris

It is traditional to put a shekel in the mouth of the fish before eating it.  This recalls a miracle of Jesus where he paid taxes using a coin from the mouth of a fish.  Thanks Colin Winstanely for the photo.  Your pic is much clearer than the one I had taken.  Colin and Jane from Ontario are on the tour with us and have generously lent me their guide book several times to double check details before I post.

 Omari our waiter makes the most amazing Turkish coffee.   The dark liquid is served in tiny cups that hold perhaps 2 tablespoons of liquid. Fresh dates are succulently sweet tasting like the food of the gods.

Did I read the sign correctly?  Oriental restaurant is an interesting description......perhaps something lost in translation.

Such beautiful landscape everywhere........

 Sea of Galilee Boats

The Sea of Galilee Boat is also known as the "Jesus Boat" which was an ancient fishing boat from the 1st century CE which was discovered in 1986 on the local shores by a couple of fisherman during a drought year.

I couldn't resist taking a pic of Hernan taking a pic for Lue.   Loving everyone on this tour.....they are such a thoughtful and caring group of people

 Linda and Susan from Vancouver came together for the pilgrimage.  Susan (on the right) is celebrating her birthday today!  What a way to celebrate.....whilst on the Sea of Galilee

 The students of Trinity College were a large part of the Ontario gang!    

 Our tour guide extraordinaire Nadal, is a Palestinian Christian from Bethlehem and has been with us throughout the duration of our tour...his wealth of information is amazing and has humour to match.  His favourite comments are "come unto me...", and "be back on the  bus in ten minutes or the bus will leave, with you or with you" (never "without" you) 

The "sisters" and by that I don't mean nuns.  Helen on the right lives in Victoria and her sister Pauline on the left lives in Rugby England.  

Ancient Sea of Galilee Boat......a day of memories on the "sea" to cherish.

Our national anthem and flag was a welcoming gift for us being so far away from home and family.

A demonstration of how the nets were thrown off the boat to fish

THE REGION OF GALILEE

"Travel Quote".....

 

Today we departed from Jerusalem for Nazareth through the region of Galilee for the usual wake up call at 6:30 which comes with a shrill ring......creating a jolt to your system to which you receive a loud dial tone upon picking up the receiver.  I made the comment to Andy that for the last six days, some  person has been phoning, waking us up, then hanging up and if I find who it is, they will receive a piece of my mind. He added, yeah and if they do it one more time, we are going to leave this place first thing in the morning. :)

Ahh.....don't you just love wake up calls?

An hour into the bus journey, we stopped at a large rest stop.  I noticed more young soldiers. than usual today.  They are friendly and as usual I took a pic!   Never to refuse the opportunity to get a slice of life in Israel by the lens. We had learned from our tour guide of the huge benefits from being a soldier such a buying land cheaper and academic scholarships.

Up and close but nobody minds

Friendly soldier on his coffee break

Caesarea

Justin is a Theological Student who is much loved by our fellow tour participants

Caesarea

Hernan and Linda

Andy and some "colossal" columns :)

In 29 - 22 BCE Herod the Great built a bustling city on the Port of Caesarea, dedicating it to Augustus Caesar, the Roman emperor.  The afternoon was spent at the Caesarea National Park. The ancient Roman theatre was huge.......seats for 4,000 spectators.  After lunch many swam in the Med.  I meandered  around the complex on my own, trying to visualize what it would have looked like in ancient times until I reached the place where two men were fishing with poles of 15 feet but alas I truly was not alone when I stumbled upon a discovery.

I truly was not alone and what a discovery I found.....now is anyone going to believe what I found?

Men casting their lines 

It doesn't take a great deal of effort to find shards of pottery from the ruins.  I have two little pieces, one is glazed, the other is lined and shows the ridge of a rim. I had wanted to find a piece for Dylan.  Not sure exactly who this man was on his own too.  The area has a resort type residential area that the President and Prime Minister of Israel have homes in and for that reason, every vehicle is photographed.  In close proximity, we had a quick tour around the Roman aqueduct that originates at Mount Carmel.  To ensure water flow at the right speed, the aqueduct was carefully designed with a 1cm drop every 10km in its 34 km length.

The Roman Aqueduct 

The Secret Window

Our last stop for the day was Zippori (Sepphoris).  This is an amazing archaeological discovery within the last generation, giving us an insight into the extent of Roman building that was going on in the time of Jesus, and how Joseph might easily have been employed in this huge project. Notice the amphitheatre - signs of Greek and Roman culture mixing with the Jewish community.

Above Roman Theatre in Sepphoris

Nazareth consists of two parts.  The old town is inhabited by Christian and Muslim Palestinians and is utterly fascinating.  Curiosity draws you to wander into every nook and cranny. The souk is a maze of narrow alleys. The other part is a large Jewish district founded in 1957. 

We stayed two nights in the Century Plaza which is a Kosher hotel.   In observant Jewish religion, you cannot combine dairy and meat and nor can you use the same cooking vessel for different types of meal.  In other words, even if you were to wash dishes that were used for meat,  you cannot use them again for dairy.  For that reason, there are two kitchens in the hotel which means there must be  two sets of plates, cutlery, wine glasses etc.  Breakfast is the dairy meal and in the hotel buffet, we were offered dairy products such as cheese, yogurt and milk in your coffee with no meat allowed.   No dairy products are offered for dinner so that means no milk for coffee. For dinner,  meat and fish are served.  We had asked for hot water for dinner so our server brought it to our tables in paper cups because cups and saucers are part of the breakfast kitchen.   Shabbat is on Saturday, beginning with sundown Friday evening, but stores close Friday afternoon in preparation.  Stores close and those who practice their religion closely do not exert energy or use certain types of mechanisms that might be considered a violation of the commandment to rest.  There is a sign that says Shabbat elevator which is  an elevator which stops at every floor on the Sabbath, so that you do not have to press a button, which would be considered a form of work.  On every door is a mezuzah, which is a symbol or a reminder of the law of Judaism, taken from the book of Deuteronomy.  You need to put the reminder of the law on your door post.

A YOUNG PALESTINIAN MAN TELLS US: IF YOU BELIEVE IN GOD, HOPE IS THE KEY

Saint Francis....Where there is hatred, let me sow love, where there is injury, pardon....where there is darkness, light,where there is sadness..joy"

THE TEMPLE MOUNT IN JERUSALEM AND ST. ANNE'S CHURCH

Quote "Those who know nothing of foreign languages know nothing of their own"........ Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Canadian pilgrims entering a French convent with a Latin name (Ecce Homo) built over a Roman pavement with a Greek name (Lithostrotos - the place where Jesus was condemned to death), with street signs in Hebrew, Arabic, and English to guide the way. A few of us as we take photos along the way.

One of our first views of the Dome.  Magnificence at its finest

We have lots of fun on the bus.  Here is a youtube vid I took of us Andy teaching us how to sing an Arabic song.  

1. 1st disclaimer...I am  an experienced video maker
2. 2nd disclaimer...English speaking people can't quite pronounce Arabic perfectly!
3. 3rd disclaimer....The tour participants are so wonderfully agreeable to not protest me posting this vid!
4. Ignore 1st disclaimer and click the link below :) 

Arabic Song of Joy


The Temple Mount

Our day started with the usual wake up call that for me personally instills a sense of ..where am I feeling. We have now learned the routine which is to quickly get yourself as presentable as possible and  down to the dining room so that you still have ample time to pack the provisions you may need during the day outing.  Today our itinerary consisted of The Temple Mount, The Crusader Church of St. Anne's Catholic church in the Old City and The Israeli Museum.

Our bus dropped us off in close proximity to where we were to begin our queueing up for the Temple Mount.  We entered through the Dung Gate.....one of the gates in the walled City and nearest to the Temple Mount and The Western Wall.  I have to admit when I first heard the name, it definitely had a negative association in my mind. It was the gate that refuse such as that from a butcher shop was carted outside the city to be burned.   Today masses of tourists and devoted pilgrims bulge through the gates on their way to The Western Wall and The Temple Mount.

There was a sign indicating that the opening for the Temple Mount was 7 AM.  It was a little after 8 AM when we arrived to find a rather long line up and upon reflecting back, I would estimate that it took us 45 minutes before we arrived at the metal detector.

Our view of the Western Wall in the Men's section from the queue up above.  Somehow I felt as if we were invading their sense of prayer and privacy.

 Of course I asked permission first before taking this pic.  After a very short conversation, they agreed the long line up was just a normal day

St Anne's Church Crusader Church in the Old City

St. Anne's church was built between 1131 and 1138 to replace a Byzantine church that had been destroyed. The earlier church was built around 450 and destroyed in 614. The church is beside the Bethesda Pool where Jesus healed a sick man. The church is designed for Gregorian chant so that the church in itself is like a musical instrument to be played by the human voice.  Anyone of any religion is allowed to sing a song, but only religious songs are permitted.  The acoustics are amazing when used by a solo soprano or a tenor voice.  St. Anne's is located in the Muslim Quarter, near the Lion's Gate.  The church was donated to France in 1856 by the Ottomans.  We were told by Nadal our tour guide that the church is run by a Catholic order of priests called the White Fathers who were named that because of the colour of their skin and robes.  

What touched me the most is that this marks the site of the home of Jesus' maternal grandparents, Anne and Joachim, and the birthplace of their daughter the Virgin Mary. I immediately felt the huge contrast of the bustling streets and alleys of the Muslim Quarter to this beautiful courtyard that took my breath away.  The courtyard is could almost be called an Oasis because this is next to the Bethesda Pool where  the gospel of John records that Jesus healed a sick man. With the warm temperature and the serenading of birds, this truly seemed a modern day healing location for the modern-day traveller to find a place of peace and tranquility.  While our group was singing what sounded to me like angelic harmony, I stole away to meditate by the statues of Anne and Mary and stood by the votive memory candles. I felt an  intense comfort along with  emotion while thoughts of my son Andrew who we lost three years ago flooded my mind and overwhelmed me.  It was perhaps the memory candles along with my Catholic connection.  

Memorial Votives.....stirring up emotional thoughts 

during the time the 34 beautiful people on our

tour were singing so sweetly.

The statue of Anne and Mary.  I felt such a connection

here while the voices were reverberating echoes of 

such kind and wonderful people.

We had lunch at Shalizar Restaurant in East Jerusalem where we had a beautiful Arabic meal.  The restaurant is quite exotic inside with colourful walls and decor.  A friendly guardian parrot greets us at the doorway and only slightly squawks after getting the paparazzi camera clicks from our gang.   We have been told that dogs are not popular in Jerusalem but cats are everywhere including a white one that seemed attracted to me.  Luckily Andy rescued me and got his cat fix at the same time.  I think Brian was relieved too as he is allergic to cats!  Brian and Karen joined us at our table.  They live in Ontario where he is a minister in Acton.

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Andy removes the cat from the table for a cuddle.

Friendly guardian greets us at the door!

Richard has selected some of the most wonderful locations/meals during our trip so far.  Today we had kebabs with two different kinds of lamb (ground with yummy Arabic spices and tender pieces of meat) along with kebab chicken.  We had the ubiquitous hummus, tabouleh, fattoush, eggplant salad, tahini and other yummy salads.  Of course no meal is ever served without pita.  We finish this delightful meal and go through the usual ritual which is the women filing into a long line up for a washroom or two.  While running out to meet the bus, we meet a Jewish lady who encourages us to run faster to catch our bus.  She asks if we have had a good meal and that she is glad for us.  She also wants us to know that she cannot eat there because it is not Kosher.  

For those who are interested.......here is the Shalizar website.

The link to the Shalizar restaurant

A DAY IN THE DESERT TO THE EAST OF JERUSALEM

April 22nd.  A wonderful experience in the desert outside of Jerusalem.

Palestinian Quote "Peace can happen in 24 hours.....just like war can happen in 24 hours"
Sari Nusseibeh
Sari Nusseibeh is a Palestinian professor of philosophy and president of the Al-Quds University in Jerusalem. Until December 2002 he was the representative of the Palestinian National Authority in that city


WADI QELT. 

A wadi is a dry river bed which will sometimes have water running through it after a period of rain.  We have just experienced two days of unusually wet weather in Jerusalem which means that it brings the wadi to life.  Just a 20 minute drive out of Jerusalem took us to this amazing place called Wadi Qelt.  The vista was breathtaking.  The continents of Africa and Asia meet at the Rift Valley of the Jordan River and the Dead Sea.  The African and the Arabian plate have shifted creating many earthquakes in this area.  Not today, we were glad to say! 

We have now been with our tour group for the last few days.  We had just arrived with the intention of meditating in the desert which is where Jesus fasted for 40 days and nights.  Througout the duration of our reflective meditation, we heard the distant sound of shooting from a continuous military exercise by the Israeli army.

This Wadi begins in Jerusalem and then goes through the area of the wall into the West Bank and therefore Palestinian territory.  We were met by the Bedouin who wanted us to purchase their wares.  I met with a little fellow who was so sweet.  I can't remember his exact name but it sounded something like Arric.  Luckily I had a container of tic tacs to share with him.  Look closely at his small hands which are adorned with beautiful bracelets.  I now have a beautiful little pink bracelet for Alyssa who will be thrilled to receive it.

Arric and his Dad Mohammed who is the father of three children

If you look closely at the wadi, you can see a line of greenery in the mid photo.  This indicates where Herod's Aqueduct takes water from the Mount of Olives down to Jericho



JERICHO

Jericho means moon and it has significance as the oldest city in the world that has been continuously inhabited for 10,000 years since 8,000 BCE. No Jewish people live in Jericho because according to the Bible, Joshua placed a curse on the city and therefore no Jewish person would consider living there.  People on the bus said they saw a sign entering Jericho saying something like "Area unsafe for Jews to be here".  

This was the second time we were in Palestine, the first being Bethlehem which I will blog about at some point.  Both in Bethlehem and Jericho our bus drove past a single car crash from what appeared to be the result of excessive speed.

Not the greatest pic because I took it from the bus.  Might be coincidence......the second time in Palestine and the second single car crash.  The other incident had the vehicle completely flipped over.

Jericho 

An Oasis in the Desert

Jericho is just a few miles from the Dead Sea

My first impression of Jericho from what I could see from my bus seat was that of an Oasis.  It owe's it's existence to the Ain es-Sultan Spring.  We were told that this was the first place to actually produce food rather than gathering it, creating a city out of its population of semi nomadic settlers.  We were also told that during Roman times Mark Antony made a gift of the oasis town to Cleopatra of Egypt, who, in turn, leased the place to Herod the Great.  

Bus loads of people tour here everyday.  We had a wonderful buffet lunch at the Mount of the Temptation Restaurant before heading out to the Dead Sea Scroll Museum.  The Mount of Temptation is held by tradition to be the place where Jesus faced his temptations after being baptized in the Jordan River. 

St George's Monastery

The hike down to this absolute gem was worth such a fine hike down this steep hill into this ancient retreat hollowed out of the sheer wall of a deep and narrow gorge. It was founded in 480 CE around a cluster of caves in a place where, according to tradition, St. Joachim (Jesus' grandfather) learned from the angels that Mary was to be born to his wife Ann.  The monastery was destroyed by the Persians (modern day Iran) and only fully rebuilt in the 19th century by the Greek Orthodox monks whose successors still to this day reside in the monastery.

Truly a Gem! 

Sam is one of the Bedouins who offer donkey rides to the Monastery.  Some rode the donkeys but I preferred to walk.  He never pressured me to ride and instead we walked and chatted.

What a beautiful backdrop  in this spectacular setting.  I tried to enlarge the pic as much as possible to see the monastery to the right of Richard LeSueur and Andy.  


Richard is a priest in  at St. George's Cadboro Bay, Victoria B.C. and is Andy's colleague.  He truly is our tour guide extraordinaire.  Richard's tour of Israel and Palestine is top notch in not only activities, accommodations, meals and the way our time is structured to tour places in such a positive way.  He runs his tours with such care and precision to every detail.  If anyone wants further details, please send me a message and I can give details.  The next tour is in 2015 tentatively.

A monk rides down the steep path with a Bedouin youth.

Sam stops to allow his donkey to drink from the aqueduct.  We were lucky to see water flowing from the recent rains.

I didn't want to leave this wonderful sacred refuge in such a pristine setting.

The Bedouin partially make their living from meeting tour busses at sites where they stop, including the Monastery.  Some can be quite persistent selling their scarves, donkey rides, handmade jewelry, orange juice and dates.  I was so fortunate to have had the wonderful connection with Sam.  I learned that Sam was from a family of eight children as his father had two wives.  Our conversation steered into the topic of how foreign the idea is for North Americans and Europeans.   He said he did not believe in Jesus, nor did he believe in any thing at all.  He believes in himself, he said, and at the end of the day he asks himself if he has done what is right.  Unlike any of the other vendors, he never once made any requests for purchase.  That was a special connection for me and truly filled my heart during the day knowing that despite the difference of religions, or to be more precise the lack of any religious common ground, that we are all the same and the connection was more like he was a nephew.  I loved hearing his stories.

MAHANE YEHUDA MARKET, WEST JERUSALEM

Travel Quote "  Three things restore a person's good spirits.....beautiful sounds, sights and smells"

Babylonian Talmud, Berakhot 57 B

Getting ready for Shabbat at the Bakery Stall

מאפייה
After asking the vendor to take his photo, he happily agrees

Such a very fitting quote for what we have seen at Mahane Yehuda Market which is also known as  Shuk Mahan Yehuda or as the locals call it The Shuk.   The Shuk is an open air marketplace that is partially covered.  It is immensely popular with locals but tourists as well.  The market has over 250 vendor stalls.  You can buy anything from produce to baked goods.......nuts to seeds.....clothing and shoes, housewares, fabrics, delectably halva, wine and liquors and fish.  I am absolutely certain the list would go on and on.   You can also buy Jewish antiques.  Food stalls are everywhere.....crates of oranges sit on table tops beside large metal juicers that are operated with extended metal handles for the best fresh Jaffa Orange juice, coffee shops, bakeries, freshly made falafels aroma drifts through the air along with Shawarma.  Some stalls sell only candies while others sell dried goods of lentils and beans. The pace here is a mixed bag....shoppers frantically move from stall to stall, pushing their way in and out while others make it  a social event with the intention of meet and greet!  On Thursdays and Fridays, the market is abuzz with shoppers stocking up for the Shabbat until the Friday afternoon sounding of the horn that indicates the signal of closure.  

Spices everywhere you look!  The fragrance is intoxicating

You can even buy a Crocodile Dundee hat!  Hint hint.....he keeps losing his hats so if anyone has found one please let us know :)

Bakery and Beverage Selection beside a Green Grocer

People from all walks of life......soldiers and civilians

ספק דגים
Notice the Hebrew writing on the sign.  You can tell the fish is very fresh because it smells good instead of fishy

חלבהHalva vendors.  A blend of honey, tahini (sesame seed paste) and various nuts and sometimes flour.  So very rich!  Free samples.........

This is what I learned today

1. Despite the fact that this area has had a history of suicide attacks (being it is a high traffic area), it feels so safe being here that it never crossed my mind. People here are so accustomed to security checks as a way of life.  We went to the Post Office through security just as we did at the Western Wall.  In this country they are experts in keeping their citizens safe.  It is a good feeling :)
   
2. 
   

Don't run out of gas the day before Shabbat otherwise you will wait very long.  Trust me.....this pic does not make the point easily.  They were starting to line up further down the road.

3. Many people do not have cars here.  They are expensive as well as parking is at a premium.  Fuel is expensive and the light rail transit works efficiently.  I can't remember how many shekels our tickets cost but it was something equivalent to $2 Cdn.

Light Rail Transit is relatively quite new.